The One Suit Every Man Should Own (and How to Get It Right)
If you could only have one suit that had to work for everything, here is what it is, why it works, and how to make it do the job of five.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most versatile suit color?
Navy. It reads as formal without the severity of black and professional without the rigidity of charcoal, so it moves easily between weddings, offices, interviews and evening dinners.
What suit should I buy first?
A mid-navy, single-breasted, two-button suit in a mid-weight wool with a modern fit. That specification covers the widest range of professional and social occasions a single suit will be asked to handle.
Why is navy the best suit color?
Because no other color works across as many occasions. Navy photographs well in every kind of light, pairs with almost any shirt and with both brown and black shoes, and will still look correct in ten years.
Is navy or charcoal more versatile?
Navy. Charcoal stays formal in every context, while navy communicates authority in a morning meeting and ease at an evening dinner. Charcoal is the ideal second suit once navy is covered.
What color suit goes with everything?
A mid-navy suit comes closest. It works with white, pale blue, light grey and soft pink shirts, coordinates with most ties and pocket squares, and pairs equally well with brown or black shoes.
What fabric is best for a man's only suit?
A mid-weight wool in the 280 to 320 gram range. It handles the widest range of temperatures, holds its shape through a full day, and avoids the discomfort of heavy winter weights or the fragility of very light cloth.
How do I make one suit work for multiple occasions?
Keep the suit constant and change what surrounds it. Swapping the shirt, tie, shoes and pocket square takes the same navy suit from formal wedding wear to the office, business casual, evening social and blazer looks.
What suit works for both weddings and work?
A well-fitted navy suit. Worn with a white French cuff shirt, a deep silk tie and black Oxfords it is wedding-ready, and with a pale blue shirt and brown Derbies it becomes your everyday professional suit.
Can I wear a suit jacket as a blazer?
Yes, a navy suit jacket works well as a blazer. Pair it with dark jeans or well-fitted chinos, an open-collar shirt and loafers or Chelsea boots, making sure the trousers are distinct enough to look deliberate.
What suit should I buy after my first navy suit?
Charcoal, followed by mid-grey as the third. Together, navy, charcoal and mid-grey handle essentially every professional and social occasion outside of black tie, all using the same shirts and shoes.